Kill warping in 3D prints for ever

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Is your 3D Printing experience plagued with defects on the surface and terrible print quality?

If you desire to eliminate random print artifacts like excessive stringing, warping, and delamination, isolating your 3d printer from the surroundings will be the best thing you will ever do.

Full video can be found here:

Want to make your own enclosure for your 3d printer?

Below you can find materials, where to get them and step-by-step instructions

  • Bill of Material for BlackBox

    Structure:

    12 500mm 2020 aluminum profiles

    8 3-way end corners

    Paneling:

    3 corrugated plastic panels. 36x24

    30ft bi-adhesive tape
    (cheaper alternative: voron clips)

    Front doors: 

    2 10x20inch polycarbonate panels 3 or 4 mm (cut to size)

    4 3D printed hinges VzBot,

    16 M4x12 screws,8 M4 Tnuts, 8 Nuts


    Handle:

    Handle right

    Handle left

    Rear Handle - print two

    Internal handle rest - print two


    2 M4x8 + 2 M4 Tnuts

    2 M4x12 + 2 M4 nuts

    6 magnets

    Optional:

    1 5v USB 12inch/30cm led bar

    1 Temperature/moisture controller

  • Filtration: 1 Bentobox for filtration

Assembly instructions

Step 1

Prepare 2020 aluminum profiles, cut to length depending on your printer bed travel (Y) and Z gantry travel (including PTFE tubes/extruder)

Standard 500mm profiles are fully tested for Prusa MINI, Prusa MK3’s, Prusa clones

Step 2

Use 8 3-way end corners to build a box structure.

End result for 500mm profiles: a cube of 540x510x540mm

Test the structure placing your printer inside and verifying X/Y/Z travels. 

Step 3

Place bi-adhesive tape on external part of the 2020, on 5 of 6 faces (6th face is the front-facing one for doors, no tape required). If you do not want to use adhesive tape, you can use voron clips (saving around $9-$10): some adaptation may be required.

Step 4

Cut to length the corrugated panels, following the 2020 cube. I suggest using a marker to get the right dimensions and cutting after.
Don’t over-cut: excess material can be removed with a scalpel.

Glue or clip down the corrugated panels.


I suggest to cut and install panels one at a time to avoid misplacement or erroneous cuts.
If you want to save some material, wrap the remaining part of the panel as in the below picture scoring one side of the corrugated panel.

Step 5

I suggest to cut, drill and mount ONE door at a time to account for inaccuracies and placement of the second door.

Prepare polycarbonate panels: measure overall opening front-facing the cube, and add 5mm/quarter inch on top and bottom. for the 500mm, cube, the single door has dimensions of: 

Lenght: 10 and 1/4 inches or 26.2 cm

Height: 20 and 3/4 inches or 52.5cm

Note: Cutting of polycarbonate will require a Jig saw or a table saw. Acrylic panel will shatter if incorrect blades are used.

Prepare for drilling holes for hinges. Print the hinges from Simon’s website and use at least two per door.
If you do not have a 4x50mm shaft, a PTFE tube can be used as pin.

Carve corrugated panel for mounting the hinge. if you used bi-adhesive tape, remove the excess to allow Tnuts to properly grip.

Repeat for door #2

Step 6

Mounting front handle.

Add magnets with attracting polarity to all round holes. for the hole handle assembly, 6 magnets 6x6x3mm will suffice i suggest to use some CA glue to hold them in place

In case of a 500mm cube enclosure, drill two holes in the polycarbonate doors, at 60mm from the center and 35mm from the bottom.

Screw in place with M4 screw the handle with the rear part.

once handle is in place. screw the resting block to the 2020 profile.

Step 7

Cable routing:

A rear-facing hole in the corrugated panel can be drilled for PSU cable and accessories (filtration unit, led light). I recommend on the lower part so heat does not escape. drill the hole as small as possible.

If you use a led light, usually it comes with included bioadhesive/magnets and power brick.

# DONE